Most (perhaps all) of us have been in a situation at one time or another where we've had the hiccups. When they do strike, one hopes that it's not at a critical time, such as immediately before or during the making of a presentation. But, of course, that isn't always the case, as Murphy's Law will attest. Furthermore, hiccups are uncomfortable and are annoying to have for any length of time greater than about 1 minute. Well, there's good news ... hiccups are easily curable ... read on.
On at least 3 different occasions with 3 different people (including myself), I've found that there is one sure cure for the hiccups. I'd like to give credit for this idea but I cannot remember where, when, or from whom I acquired it. Regardless of the original source, it's simple to try: gulp down one 1-ounce shot of Rose's Lime Juice. This is a sweetened and concentrated lime juice with extreme "pucker power" (i.e., you won't like it but it's better than cod liver oil). Best known for its use in various alcoholic beverages (Cosmopolitan, Martini, Margarita), this mixer is not alcoholic ... just very effective at eliminating hiccups, immediately. I don't know if the same results may be had when taken in its diluted form, as in a tasty Margarita, but that may be something to try, if you've a mind to. But if the Margarita doesn't work, well, at least it would probably have been fun to try and, afterwards, taking the "straight" stuff might be quite a bit easier on the palate.
So next time you have the hiccups and are at your wit's end about how to get rid of them, try Rose's Lime Juice. It really works ...
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Lefty?
I didn't know that Barak was a lefty. However, he did make a pretty good (if a bit wussyful) throw from the mound to home (Pujols was the catcher) to open the All-Star game in St. Louis tonight.
On the bicycle riding front, I have been given a new respect for riders that use single gear bikes. This happened because of an encounter I had yesterday on my usual 14.2 mile circuit with a 30-ish guy riding one. We rode together for about 7 miles and I ended up ahead of him ... but pretty much only because I was able to gain a lot of ground on the downhills, where my higher gears took the day. He was a bear on the uphills, although he did them all standing on the pedals. Tough guy. Well, it was a competitive and fun ride and I ended up with a 2009 best personal time of 46:38 for the route (about 18.2 mph) even with a fairly stiff easterly breeze.
On the bicycle riding front, I have been given a new respect for riders that use single gear bikes. This happened because of an encounter I had yesterday on my usual 14.2 mile circuit with a 30-ish guy riding one. We rode together for about 7 miles and I ended up ahead of him ... but pretty much only because I was able to gain a lot of ground on the downhills, where my higher gears took the day. He was a bear on the uphills, although he did them all standing on the pedals. Tough guy. Well, it was a competitive and fun ride and I ended up with a 2009 best personal time of 46:38 for the route (about 18.2 mph) even with a fairly stiff easterly breeze.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
1998 Camry Spark Plug Replacement
I had an interesting time replacing the spark plugs on my 98 Camry (4-cylinder) last week. Based on comments from the dealer (who had done some work for me about a month ago), I knew it was probably time to replace them. Sure enough, a records check showed that it was close to 70,000 miles since I'd put in the last set. I like to use the Bosch Platinum-4 plugs, which are gapless and seem to last a very long time. The Toyota recommended plug is the Platinum-2 but I think you get more spark with the -4.
The engine has recessed openings (spark plug "wells") through the valve cover with a rubber boot at the top covering the wells. At the bottom of each well (about 4 inches down) is a spark plug and, in this case, there are 4 wells. First disconnect the plug wires (they run through the well coverings). Then take a few minutes to blow compressed air down each spark plug well to clean out any possible debris so it doesn't get an opportunity to drop into the engine cylinder when the plug is removed. Removing the plugs is straightforward. Using a 5/8" spark plug socket (with a rubber grip in the middle to hold onto a spark plug), they are easily turned out. The grip in the socket will hold them tightly as they are removed from the individual wells.
The tricky part comes when the new plug is installed. If you choose to try to put the plugs in using the same 5/8" spark plug socket, it will seemingly work fine. But after finishing tightening the plug, the socket will stay at the bottom of the well, firmly holding onto the newly installed spark plug, while the extension and wrench are removed. The problem is that the rubber grip of the spark plug socket is "too good" ... it's much stronger than the holding power of the extension rod that is inserted in the socket to reach the bottom of the well, so the extension rod simply pulls out, leaving the socket. The solution is simple. The installation job requires a deep well 5/8" socket that is *not* a "spark plug" socket. This means that it doesn't have the rubber grip insert to hold the spark plug. You can either purchase an additional socket or use a needle nose pliers and remove the gripper (temporarily) from the spark plug socket you already have. If you remove the gripper, re-installation is aided by rubbing a bit of dishwashing soap on the outside of the grip rubber before pushing it back in to the socket.
At this point, there is concern that the socket might not hold onto the spark plug enough and it might be difficult to reacquire it (the plug) if it drops into the bottom of the well. One solution is to put a 1/4" wide piece of duct tape (what else?) vertically down the outside of the socket, terminating around the bottom edge on the inside. This gives the socket just enough additional grip that it easily holds on to the spark plug as it is inserted into the well. For a new engine block, the specified plug torque is 15 ft lbs. For replacing spark plugs in a used engine (the normal case), use 11 ft lbs of torque. Replace the plug wires (you'll hear a firm click) and make sure the well coverings are in place and the job is done.
The engine has recessed openings (spark plug "wells") through the valve cover with a rubber boot at the top covering the wells. At the bottom of each well (about 4 inches down) is a spark plug and, in this case, there are 4 wells. First disconnect the plug wires (they run through the well coverings). Then take a few minutes to blow compressed air down each spark plug well to clean out any possible debris so it doesn't get an opportunity to drop into the engine cylinder when the plug is removed. Removing the plugs is straightforward. Using a 5/8" spark plug socket (with a rubber grip in the middle to hold onto a spark plug), they are easily turned out. The grip in the socket will hold them tightly as they are removed from the individual wells.
The tricky part comes when the new plug is installed. If you choose to try to put the plugs in using the same 5/8" spark plug socket, it will seemingly work fine. But after finishing tightening the plug, the socket will stay at the bottom of the well, firmly holding onto the newly installed spark plug, while the extension and wrench are removed. The problem is that the rubber grip of the spark plug socket is "too good" ... it's much stronger than the holding power of the extension rod that is inserted in the socket to reach the bottom of the well, so the extension rod simply pulls out, leaving the socket. The solution is simple. The installation job requires a deep well 5/8" socket that is *not* a "spark plug" socket. This means that it doesn't have the rubber grip insert to hold the spark plug. You can either purchase an additional socket or use a needle nose pliers and remove the gripper (temporarily) from the spark plug socket you already have. If you remove the gripper, re-installation is aided by rubbing a bit of dishwashing soap on the outside of the grip rubber before pushing it back in to the socket.
At this point, there is concern that the socket might not hold onto the spark plug enough and it might be difficult to reacquire it (the plug) if it drops into the bottom of the well. One solution is to put a 1/4" wide piece of duct tape (what else?) vertically down the outside of the socket, terminating around the bottom edge on the inside. This gives the socket just enough additional grip that it easily holds on to the spark plug as it is inserted into the well. For a new engine block, the specified plug torque is 15 ft lbs. For replacing spark plugs in a used engine (the normal case), use 11 ft lbs of torque. Replace the plug wires (you'll hear a firm click) and make sure the well coverings are in place and the job is done.
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