Having observed a recurring engine check light with code P0137 on my 2008 Camry (2.4L 4 cylinder, 2AZ-FE) that finally became a solid "on", it seemed that it was time for a repair job. In this case, P0137 identifies the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor as having failed. This sensor is located in the exhaust system downstream of the catalytic converter. It is quite easily accessible with the car up on support ramps by sliding under the front of the vehicle (for a DIY on a garage floor).
Several things to be aware of for this relatively simple repair:
1. let the car (especially the exhaust system) cool down before this repair
2. the O2 sensor will likely be frozen in place due to rust
--the part must be "broken loose" before attempting removal
3. you need to know if your car complies with California emissions standards
--my car is California compliant. Don't assume your vehicle is *not* just because it was not manufactured in California. This may make a difference in the part used (and see #4, next).
4. there are (at least) two Denso replacement parts, 234-4627 and 234-4260 for the California emissions version of this 2008 Toyota Camry.
--the parts are identical except for the length of the connecting wire. 234-4260 has a 3" shorter wire and so I purchased it (although both will work) for my vehicle. It's a good idea to measure this length before settling on a part. Longer wire is OK, but getting wires that are too short means having to lengthen them (there are 4) or exchange the part. Both of these parts are available on Amazon for around $53 (as of 12/01/2014).
5. a special socket (22mm) may be needed for removal and/or for accurate installation torque.
--specified installation torque is 32 ft lb. The special socket(s) can be obtained from (among other places) auto parts stores such as Advance Auto Parts as a tool kit. If you get the sensor part at a local store that carries the tool kit (that you also buy), you will typically be able to return the kit for a full refund (so it really is becomes just a loaner kit). However, the sensor will cost more locally (typically around $90 plus tax) so a plan might be to just buy the tool kit (typically $35), get the sensor from Amazon (around $53) so that you get a nice tool to add to your tool box along with the needed part, all for about the same cost as purchasing the sensor itself locally. The tool kit can probably be purchased on Amazon as well... I didn't look into that.
Step by step replacement of the Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor:
Step 1. Disconnect the vehicle battery.
Disconnect the ground side of the battery. If you want to ensure that all (or most) stored capacitive power is removed, step on the brake pedal for a few seconds after disconnecting the battery... but this is probably not necessary. Also, if you forget to disconnect the battery, it's probably not going to hurt anything as long as the ignition is off but removing electrical power is good practice before working on an electrical component. It also has the supplemental effect of clearing the engine check codes. This means that the check light will only turn on after the repair if some other failure exists or if the newly installed part is bad (unlikely).
Step 2. Disconnect the sensor plug.
A bit of pressure from a flat bladed screwdriver tip is all that's necessary here. When done correctly (there's a small serrated section on top of the female plug, that's where the pressure is needed), there will be a tiny "click" as the male plug is released and it can then be wriggled out of its receptacle.
Step 3. Breaking the sensor free.
The first thing to understand here (based on my experience anyway) is that WD-40 will *not* do this job well (if at all). I tried using WD-40 (because I had some sitting around) and the only thing I accomplished was partially rounding the edges of the 22mm mounting nut (this nut is an integrated part of the sensor). It simply would not come off, even with somewhat vigorous tapping of the part alternated with repeated application of WD-40 over a 1/2 hour period. The solution (and this was new to me) is to create a 50-50 mixture of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and Acetone, mix it well in an applicator type container (e.g. an oiling can) and apply it liberally to the sensor nut area. Be sure to tap (I used a punch) the sensor to help it break free. I let this soak for 15 minutes, re-applied, tapped it some more and then waited for another 10 minutes before trying to unscrew the device. I was successful using a 10" pipe wrench with added leverage from a 1" diameter pipe slipped over its handle. However, I went to the pipe wrench approach only because I'd partially rounded the corners of the nut earlier (due to it not being loosened up by WD-40).
Step 4. Install the new sensor.
Each Denso part comes with a small tube of high temperature anti-seize compound. Be sure to apply this to the threads of the sensor before installing. This will make it easier to replace the sensor at a future date, should that ever become necessary. Screw the device in and then use a torque wrench to tighten it to 32 ft lbs. In my case, I no longer had the special socket tool kit so I used a regular 22mm wrench and tightened it about 3/4 of a turn beyond finger tight. Even so, I'm a big proponent of using the correct tightening torque, so I recommend using a torque wrench with the appropriate socket. Be careful here as you may have to do a manual adjustment on the torque amount if the wrench itself is not centered over the nut being tightened (meaning that you would be applying more torque than the setting on the wrench). Now connect the sensor plug and you're almost good to go.
Step 5. Re-connect the vehicle battery.
Re-attach the battery ground and start the car. The engine check light should be gone but if it re-appears, then the engine check code should be examined to followup on the new problem. If you don't have an OBDII compliant plug in (that will communicate with your smart phone, for example) to read (and/or reset) your engine check code(s), AutoZone is one place that will provide this service for free.
Summary
While it can be a bit irksome to get this sensor out it is only a 5 minute job after the removal is accomplished. If you try to get this sensor replaced at a Toyota service center or even most local shops, you will be paying $300 or more. As outlined here, you might (and I did) save $200+ by doing this yourself. Note, of course, that your results may vary ;-) but this is a very "doable" DIY job. Good luck!
Thursday, December 4, 2014
Tuesday, July 23, 2013
Review of Nutrinote 2010 (Premium V.3.5.0)
I recently installed Nutrinote 2010, a diet/nutrition organizer program. Having now explored its capabilities while running it on a PC (Windows 7, 64-bit) for several days, this review outlines the results of that experience. I am using the Premium version 3.5.0 edition of the software. The review will be brief and direct, listing pro's and con's and then closing with a few summary comments.
Pro's:
1. Although the initial database is small (7,500 items), the program allows for it to grow and also allows the user to identify those nutritional components of food that are to be tracked. This database flexibility is nice and contrasts with some other programs (such as Perfect Diet Tracker) that have extensive databases but very limited (to a subset of the items on a standard nutrition label) capability to keep track of different nutrients. For example, calcium cannot be kept track of in Perfect Diet Tracker.
2. Fairly extensive analysis capability to checkout the breakdown of foods eaten as well as individual components.
3. Runs from a USB flash drive if desired. This makes for great flexibility to use the program on a work computer, or while out of town, etc., as long as any PC (apparently not with Win 8, however) with a USB port can be accessed.
4. Search function works quite well when looking for foods and the filter setting for "Favorites" is extremely useful (i.e., only foods marked as "Favorite" will be shown for whatever search string has been set).
Con's:
1. After setting up a "Recipe" (think, "typical meal or group of foods eaten together"), it's very easy to insert that into the day's food consumed, but if you have any variation(s) in the quantity of any of the elements of the meal (for example, 10 oz. of milk instead of 8 oz.), you cannot just change it in the meal foods that are available right in front of you from the entry just made. In the milk example here, you would have to add 2 oz. of milk as a separate item. Very clumsy and quite shortsighted.
2. Backup of the database is apparently allowed only to an external USB (including flash) drive. Not the neatest thing and liable to become like so many other backups... neglected. Much better would be to allow backups to any drive in "My Computer". For example, I have several network drives that are always connected when I'm at home... that's where I'd like to do backups. That way I'm not having to connect/disconnect flash drives. Result: it will be much more likely to get done. Also nice would be an "autobackup" option, especially with a network drive, that would copy the database out on a regular basis (multiple times per week). See also #4 for an additional backup option possibility.
3. Program support is sparse or non-existent, at least in my brief experience. I have yet to receive an answer to my question regarding how to make the program backup to a network drive (and I don't think it can).
4. Does not integrate with DropBox. See also #2 on this. Using DropBox would be a great way to automatically backup the database while the computer is connected to the internet, always auto-syncing when re-connecting. This would also make for a nice way to ensure current data when going from a fixed base PC to a traveling laptop.
5. Price is a bit high ($49.95). There is a (free) demo version, but the demo program is hamstrung rather than having all capabilities with a (say) 1 week time limit for functionality. There are some things you really cannot figure out if you are unable to, for example, add/edit foods in the database (and you cannot add/edit foods with the demo version).
6. The layout is a bit cartoonish looking (strictly personal preference).
7. After opening the program, dragging in its window edges to the desired size and then locating it appropriately on the screen, it is a bit dismaying to find that the program *always* re-opens in the middle of the screen and at the same fixed size as before it was set up for my screen configuration. Better for it to save the size and location information and just load up that way as long as the same size (in pixels) screen is being used whenever the program is re-started.
8. For exercise (i.e. calories burned) data entry, there is no way to enter your own calories burned value (for example, from a heart monitor calorie counting system) except by creating a completely new exercise every time you make an entry (because your monitored value entry will almost surely *not* agree with any of the canned exercise table entries from the database). A more efficient "I know the calories I need to enter for this exercise" method would be very much appreciated.
9. Although the list of nutritional elements that can be monitored in the database is extremely extensive, every element of the list (yes, including those that the user is not keeping track of) is listed and must be scrolled through, in alphabetical order, to get to the item that is to be updated. This makes for very tedious scrolling to input some of the items. An improvement would be to automatically display items selected for tracking *first* with the remaining (untracked and unused) items following.
10. When entering nutrients for a "new" food, the program requires the user to manually convert input data to grams, micrograms, etc., rather than allowing for a "percent of daily value" input (for example, if calcium supplied in a food is 35% (per the food's nutrition label), the user must first, from an independent source, look up the Daily Value (DV) for calcium (1000 mg) and then go multiply that number by .35 and enter the value in milligrams into the program's food database. It does seem better to allow for entry of the 35% value from right off the nutrition label and have the program convert that to (in this case) 350 mg. This process gets even more onerous when dealing with multiple conversion steps for such things as International Units to milligrams.
Summary Comments
In summary, this program has many good elements at its core but on a 1-10 basis (10 being best), I would have to rate it at about an 8, especially for the price. The best adjective for how it feels to use the program is "tedious"... although it basically gets the job done. Furthermore, it doesn't have the feel of being fully supported as it is not spec'd for operation on Windows 8 (although that does not mean that it won't work with Windows 8, it very well might), it is not familiar with cloud type interfaces (such as DropBox) and I've not received any response to my email support request (yet). In a more up-to-date program, I also feel that a key function like database backup would be handled more efficiently and flexibly and would not be so tightly intertwined with USB flash drive technology... especially for the price paid. Given these shortcomings, I'd estimate that this program would be much more accurately valued at a price of $20 to $30.
Pro's:
1. Although the initial database is small (7,500 items), the program allows for it to grow and also allows the user to identify those nutritional components of food that are to be tracked. This database flexibility is nice and contrasts with some other programs (such as Perfect Diet Tracker) that have extensive databases but very limited (to a subset of the items on a standard nutrition label) capability to keep track of different nutrients. For example, calcium cannot be kept track of in Perfect Diet Tracker.
2. Fairly extensive analysis capability to checkout the breakdown of foods eaten as well as individual components.
3. Runs from a USB flash drive if desired. This makes for great flexibility to use the program on a work computer, or while out of town, etc., as long as any PC (apparently not with Win 8, however) with a USB port can be accessed.
4. Search function works quite well when looking for foods and the filter setting for "Favorites" is extremely useful (i.e., only foods marked as "Favorite" will be shown for whatever search string has been set).
Con's:
1. After setting up a "Recipe" (think, "typical meal or group of foods eaten together"), it's very easy to insert that into the day's food consumed, but if you have any variation(s) in the quantity of any of the elements of the meal (for example, 10 oz. of milk instead of 8 oz.), you cannot just change it in the meal foods that are available right in front of you from the entry just made. In the milk example here, you would have to add 2 oz. of milk as a separate item. Very clumsy and quite shortsighted.
2. Backup of the database is apparently allowed only to an external USB (including flash) drive. Not the neatest thing and liable to become like so many other backups... neglected. Much better would be to allow backups to any drive in "My Computer". For example, I have several network drives that are always connected when I'm at home... that's where I'd like to do backups. That way I'm not having to connect/disconnect flash drives. Result: it will be much more likely to get done. Also nice would be an "autobackup" option, especially with a network drive, that would copy the database out on a regular basis (multiple times per week). See also #4 for an additional backup option possibility.
3. Program support is sparse or non-existent, at least in my brief experience. I have yet to receive an answer to my question regarding how to make the program backup to a network drive (and I don't think it can).
4. Does not integrate with DropBox. See also #2 on this. Using DropBox would be a great way to automatically backup the database while the computer is connected to the internet, always auto-syncing when re-connecting. This would also make for a nice way to ensure current data when going from a fixed base PC to a traveling laptop.
5. Price is a bit high ($49.95). There is a (free) demo version, but the demo program is hamstrung rather than having all capabilities with a (say) 1 week time limit for functionality. There are some things you really cannot figure out if you are unable to, for example, add/edit foods in the database (and you cannot add/edit foods with the demo version).
6. The layout is a bit cartoonish looking (strictly personal preference).
7. After opening the program, dragging in its window edges to the desired size and then locating it appropriately on the screen, it is a bit dismaying to find that the program *always* re-opens in the middle of the screen and at the same fixed size as before it was set up for my screen configuration. Better for it to save the size and location information and just load up that way as long as the same size (in pixels) screen is being used whenever the program is re-started.
8. For exercise (i.e. calories burned) data entry, there is no way to enter your own calories burned value (for example, from a heart monitor calorie counting system) except by creating a completely new exercise every time you make an entry (because your monitored value entry will almost surely *not* agree with any of the canned exercise table entries from the database). A more efficient "I know the calories I need to enter for this exercise" method would be very much appreciated.
9. Although the list of nutritional elements that can be monitored in the database is extremely extensive, every element of the list (yes, including those that the user is not keeping track of) is listed and must be scrolled through, in alphabetical order, to get to the item that is to be updated. This makes for very tedious scrolling to input some of the items. An improvement would be to automatically display items selected for tracking *first* with the remaining (untracked and unused) items following.
10. When entering nutrients for a "new" food, the program requires the user to manually convert input data to grams, micrograms, etc., rather than allowing for a "percent of daily value" input (for example, if calcium supplied in a food is 35% (per the food's nutrition label), the user must first, from an independent source, look up the Daily Value (DV) for calcium (1000 mg) and then go multiply that number by .35 and enter the value in milligrams into the program's food database. It does seem better to allow for entry of the 35% value from right off the nutrition label and have the program convert that to (in this case) 350 mg. This process gets even more onerous when dealing with multiple conversion steps for such things as International Units to milligrams.
Summary Comments
In summary, this program has many good elements at its core but on a 1-10 basis (10 being best), I would have to rate it at about an 8, especially for the price. The best adjective for how it feels to use the program is "tedious"... although it basically gets the job done. Furthermore, it doesn't have the feel of being fully supported as it is not spec'd for operation on Windows 8 (although that does not mean that it won't work with Windows 8, it very well might), it is not familiar with cloud type interfaces (such as DropBox) and I've not received any response to my email support request (yet). In a more up-to-date program, I also feel that a key function like database backup would be handled more efficiently and flexibly and would not be so tightly intertwined with USB flash drive technology... especially for the price paid. Given these shortcomings, I'd estimate that this program would be much more accurately valued at a price of $20 to $30.
Sunday, October 21, 2012
Installing Photoshop CS3 on Macbook Pro, Lion 10.7.5
In attempting to install Photoshop CS3 from the standard installation DVD on my new (mid-2012) Macbook Pro (with OS X Lion, 10.7.5), I ran into an immediate error message as the DVD's setup app started executing. The error had nothing to do with the (often seen) "... install a Java runtime... ". Instead, the message I received was "photoshop cs3 Setup has encountered an error and cannot continue. Contact Adobe Customer Support for assistance."
My solution was to make an image (.dmg) file of the installation DVD on the desktop using Disk Utility (with the DVD mounted, select it on the left side of the Disk Utility window then click on "New Image" and choose the Desktop as the destination). After that, I opened the image file and executed Setup.app (in the Adobe Photoshop CS3 folder). And it installed! I expect this same issue might show up on Mountain Lion as well and, although I haven't tested it, the same solution should certainly be attempted.
This entry might hopefully be seen by someone with the same problem as I was having and, hopefully, the solution posted here will work for you. Good luck!
My solution was to make an image (.dmg) file of the installation DVD on the desktop using Disk Utility (with the DVD mounted, select it on the left side of the Disk Utility window then click on "New Image" and choose the Desktop as the destination). After that, I opened the image file and executed Setup.app (in the Adobe Photoshop CS3 folder). And it installed! I expect this same issue might show up on Mountain Lion as well and, although I haven't tested it, the same solution should certainly be attempted.
This entry might hopefully be seen by someone with the same problem as I was having and, hopefully, the solution posted here will work for you. Good luck!
Saturday, August 11, 2012
Paul Ryan for Mitt...
I just finished reading an AP news brief on the Paul Ryan (congressman from Wisconsin) selection as Mitt Romney's running mate. Of course, the Republican party (today) stands for "equal opportunity"... at least equal as long as "equality" means votes for Republican candidates. And we all now are (or should be) aware that Ronald Reagan could never make it through today's Republican party vetting process... yes, he could never be elected as President of the United States today. He would be considered waaayyyy too liberal.
So here we are with today's Republican Vice Presidential candidate hitting the ground running and saying something that immediately rung my memory bells, bringing to life a speech that has echoed through history, a speech by one of the earliest Republicans. Congressman Ryan, today, said "Our rights come from nature and from God, not government." And I say is that really true? I suppose it is, in today's Republican mantra that includes exclusion, that embraces discrimination and that would roll back any of a number of Enlightenment era laws that have helped those in this country that are less able to help themselves (think Social Security, Civil Rights, LGBT Rights, Medicare...).
But we should take a closer look at what Mr. Ryan is saying. Because his statement is clearly in conflict with that of a former Republican with, I would venture to say, significantly more understanding of, and compassion for, humanity than Mr. Ryan (or Mr. Romney) will ever even begin to have. That Republican is President Abraham Lincoln (the first Republican President, 1861-1865) whose words echo, from the Gettysburg Address (1863), that our government is "of the people, by the people, for the people... ". And Mr. Lincoln, I submit, was, and is still, right. Today's fight is really not against conservatism or liberalism in government, it is against both the wasteful use of our resources and funds (yes, Democrats, just plead guilty here, but you are not alone) *and* to ensure that we do not turn to a Christian Theocracy, as Paul Ryan is clearly advocating. Indeed, it is imperative that we do not turn to *any* theocratic form of government but that we heed the founding fathers and ensure freedom of religion by maintaining "a wall of separation between church & state" --Thomas Jefferson, 1802.
It is imperative that we recognize that our rights come from the people, from us... the citizens of this country and that the United States form of government, as embodied in our Constitution (which never once mentions "God"), was originally designed to *ensure* that we do not have to rely on any supernatural being(s) for our human rights (we "been there, done that"--remember Europe and the Dark/Middle Ages, the Inquisition... those were the manifestations of religious control of "human rights").
Remember to vote in November... at least if the conservatives have not passed laws in your state that keep you from doing so.
So here we are with today's Republican Vice Presidential candidate hitting the ground running and saying something that immediately rung my memory bells, bringing to life a speech that has echoed through history, a speech by one of the earliest Republicans. Congressman Ryan, today, said "Our rights come from nature and from God, not government." And I say is that really true? I suppose it is, in today's Republican mantra that includes exclusion, that embraces discrimination and that would roll back any of a number of Enlightenment era laws that have helped those in this country that are less able to help themselves (think Social Security, Civil Rights, LGBT Rights, Medicare...).
But we should take a closer look at what Mr. Ryan is saying. Because his statement is clearly in conflict with that of a former Republican with, I would venture to say, significantly more understanding of, and compassion for, humanity than Mr. Ryan (or Mr. Romney) will ever even begin to have. That Republican is President Abraham Lincoln (the first Republican President, 1861-1865) whose words echo, from the Gettysburg Address (1863), that our government is "of the people, by the people, for the people... ". And Mr. Lincoln, I submit, was, and is still, right. Today's fight is really not against conservatism or liberalism in government, it is against both the wasteful use of our resources and funds (yes, Democrats, just plead guilty here, but you are not alone) *and* to ensure that we do not turn to a Christian Theocracy, as Paul Ryan is clearly advocating. Indeed, it is imperative that we do not turn to *any* theocratic form of government but that we heed the founding fathers and ensure freedom of religion by maintaining "a wall of separation between church & state" --Thomas Jefferson, 1802.
It is imperative that we recognize that our rights come from the people, from us... the citizens of this country and that the United States form of government, as embodied in our Constitution (which never once mentions "God"), was originally designed to *ensure* that we do not have to rely on any supernatural being(s) for our human rights (we "been there, done that"--remember Europe and the Dark/Middle Ages, the Inquisition... those were the manifestations of religious control of "human rights").
Remember to vote in November... at least if the conservatives have not passed laws in your state that keep you from doing so
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Bicycle Knee Soreness-Not
Introduction
From time to time I have heard of or have been involved in conversations where a biker (bicyclist type) complains about having sore knees after riding, even if only on rides of fairly short distances (<10 miles). Not being a doctor, I can't make any professional medical pronouncements on this condition but I want to take a few minutes to share some experience I have on the subject. If it works for you, great, if not then "Big Disclaimer, yadda, yadda, yadda... ;-).
I have had sore knees in the past from running on hard surfaces and from many, many hours in the gym practicing and playing volleyball. Bicycling, walking and cross country skiing are now my preferred exercise modes primarily because they are very low impact. But when I first started logging a significant number of biking miles (15-16 years ago), I would occasionally come up with sore knees too. The resolution I quickly arrived at was pretty straightforward, primarily involving "fitting" of the bicycle to my body flavored with the addition of some understanding about the mechanics of how the body handles the motion and effort involved in propelling a bicycle. Please note that this article is primarily directed toward standard bicycle frames and not recumbent bicycles, although the main principles apply to both.
Background
There are 4 important elements to consider if you want to get the most out of your bicycle riding time while avoiding sore knees. These are:
1. Correct frame size for your leg length
2. Correct setting of the saddle position
3. Monitoring pedal cadence while riding
4. Monitoring your heart rate while riding
Follow The Steps
The first two items above comprise the elements of fitting the bicycle to the individual (you). Items 3 and 4 complement the (now) well fitted bicycle and rider, providing real time feedback to ensure the most efficient return on exercise time as well as providing awareness of proper pedaling effort... very important in terms of preventing injuries or chronic pain conditions from occurring. More detail is presented step by step below.
Step 1.
Taking the time and effort to get the proper frame size is crucial to everything that follows. I recommend that this be done with professional guidance at your Local Bike Shop. Generally, the longer the rider's legs, the bigger the frame that is required. As an example, for me at 5'10", the correct frame size (for my 2007 TriCross Sport bicycle) is 54cm. There is a fairly close correlation between frame size and overall height but I recommend paying attention to your inseam size (mine is 33"). At any rate, the variables here clearly lend themselves to "on the bike" measurement by someone that does this type of thing regularly.
Step 2.
Once the proper size bike is available be sure to take the time to ensure the proper saddle height. This is as important as step 1 and must never be neglected. To set the saddle height, first get the saddle in an approximately appropriate "fore-aft" position (don't worry too much about this yet). Then sit on the saddle (holding yourself up by a wall or the side of a car or with assistance from a companion) and, with normal riding shoes on, place the heel of your foot on either pedal with the pedal in its fully "extended down" position. If the leg can be just straightened completely (with no noticeable bend), you are set. If the leg is bent then the saddle is too low and must be raised. If the heel cannot comfortably reach the pedal with the leg fully extended then the saddle is too high and must be lowered. Adjust the saddle and check again until the height seems to be right. And be careful to ensure that the seat post is inserted within its proper (marked on the post) range.
It may be necessary to iterate the "up/down" and "fore/aft" a few times to get it right. Fore/aft saddle placement is best done by holding a string with a weight (use a large washer or a nut) against the outside base of the patella of the knee while sitting on the bike with the foot (not just the heel) properly placed on the pedal and the pedal in the fully forward (crank parallel to the ground) position. The string should exactly intersect the axle of the pedal. If it is forward of the pedal axle, the saddle must be moved back and if it is back of the pedal axle, the saddle must be moved forward. In either case, if saddle movement is required, the vertical position of the saddle should be re-checked to ensure that it is still correct. Some personal leeway is generally applied regarding fore/aft saddle position. Many riders prefer, for example, to set the saddle back just a little as they feel it adds more power to the pedaling stroke. If you feel you do need to deviate from the fore/aft positions outlined here, I recommend the rearward direction over moving the saddle forward as it implies less pressure on bent knee joints.
An interesting point about vertical saddle position is this: in order to make the most effective (and efficient) use of the legs, the rider should never be able to easily touch the ground with more than the tips of the toes when sitting on the saddle. This means that dismounting is accomplished by removing one foot (say the right one) from its pedal, standing on the other (the left) leg and then bending that supporting leg to lower the (right) foot to the ground... all the while braking in a coordinated fashion to complete the stop. It's my opinion that most sore knees happen to inexperienced riders who feel insecure if they are unable to put their feet down flatfooted on the ground while still sitting on the saddle. When a bike is set up in this fashion, as noted above, the saddle is set too low. The result will always be that the legs are not allowed to reach their full length (and maximum power) when pedaling and, I think, this is what strains the ligaments of the knee, causing the soreness.
Once steps 1 and 2 are completed to the rider's satisfaction, the importance of using the bicycle's gearing system properly moves front and center as the key to items 3 and 4. Items 3 and 4 complement each other and they are intimately joined by use of the mechanical advantages given by proper selection of the front and rear gears of the bike.
Step 3.
Monitoring pedal cadence (i.e., RPM of pedals) is relevant to both efficient use of the engine (the rider's body) driving the bicycle as well as the condition of the mechanical linkage (particularly the rider's knees) upon which power transmission to the pedals depends. It may be easiest to think of this in terms of how a car's engine and transmission interact. The principles are identical. For example, when driving a car with a standard transmission (say, 5 speeds) one starts off in the lowest (or 2nd lowest) gear. The reason is that there is more mechanical advantage in the lower gear and, although the top speed of the car might only be 15 or 20 mph in the low gear, extra power is provided to the wheels to get the mass of the vehicle moving. Without the gearing system, the car might require a 1000 horsepower engine to both "get started" as well as to cruise on the interstate. Efficiency would definitely suffer if this were the case.
In terms of the bicycle rider, and the issue of sore knees, efficient transmission of the rider's muscle power to the pedals means that extreme stress on the knee ligaments is avoided by proper gear selection. In other words, riding in "too high" a gear at slow speeds will put strain on the knee joint. So gear down as appropriate to how fast you wish to ride. While there's generally no additional strain involved with "spinning" pedals too fast (i.e. too low a gear when traveling at relative high speed), riders almost naturally seem to shift up (as well they should) when that occurs.
Step 4.
As promised, this step ties in to the 3 preceding elements by allowing the rider to monitor the condition of the "engine" (you... and your heart) in various states of gearing and effort expenditure during a ride. Pedaling cadence, gearing and the rider's heart rate (or amount of effort being put into the ride) are intimately related. If you don't know your aerobic exercise range of heart rate, please take the time to find out what it is (google will do a good job helping you learn this) and be aware of the numbers as you will use them regularly if you follow the precepts presented here. My range is from 125 to 150 beats per minute (bpm). A heart rate below the low value means the body is not being as efficient as it could be at, for example, burning fat... or at utilizing the carbohydrate produced energy of the body to get the best speed for the least amount of effort. The goal is to maximize the amount of time spent in your aerobic zone. To this end it's useful to use a heart rate monitor (HRM) on the bicycle.
Putting It All Together
With a properly fitted bicycle, monitoring one's heart rate to keep it in your aerobic zone while simultaneously keeping tabs on pedaling cadence for a preferred value (for me, 80-90 rpm feels right) will give the rider the best riding performance and least stress on the knees. For example, if, in my case, my heart rate drops to 110 and my cadence is 95, it's time to shift up to a higher gear. That will make my heart (or me as the "engine") speed up as I work closer to my body's maximum efficiency regime. So I might shift (back rings) from 6th to 7th. Whereupon I will immediately notice the cadence dropping (to, say, 85) and my heart rate should increase (to, say, 120). In this case, I'd probably shift up again to 8 and put more effort into pedaling to get my heart rate up to about 130 and keep the cadence at around 85. Well, I think you get the idea.
Conversely, if my heart rate should go significantly about 150 (my maximum for aerobic exercise), I'd probably adapt by shifting to a lower gear, reducing the pedaling effort... and see the heart rate drop to, say 140. Meanwhile, I'd keep paying some attention to the cadence so that it leveled off again at the (favorite) 85 rpm rate.
A quick word of caution: be sure to maintain your concentration on riding safely and with due attention to people and other bikers on the trail or to traffic around you if on the road. As always, riding should be an enjoyable experience. Hopefully this article will be useful to those that have been trying to solve sore knee problems when bicycling. Feel free to comment.
From time to time I have heard of or have been involved in conversations where a biker (bicyclist type) complains about having sore knees after riding, even if only on rides of fairly short distances (<10 miles). Not being a doctor, I can't make any professional medical pronouncements on this condition but I want to take a few minutes to share some experience I have on the subject. If it works for you, great, if not then "Big Disclaimer, yadda, yadda, yadda... ;-).
I have had sore knees in the past from running on hard surfaces and from many, many hours in the gym practicing and playing volleyball. Bicycling, walking and cross country skiing are now my preferred exercise modes primarily because they are very low impact. But when I first started logging a significant number of biking miles (15-16 years ago), I would occasionally come up with sore knees too. The resolution I quickly arrived at was pretty straightforward, primarily involving "fitting" of the bicycle to my body flavored with the addition of some understanding about the mechanics of how the body handles the motion and effort involved in propelling a bicycle. Please note that this article is primarily directed toward standard bicycle frames and not recumbent bicycles, although the main principles apply to both.
Background
There are 4 important elements to consider if you want to get the most out of your bicycle riding time while avoiding sore knees. These are:
1. Correct frame size for your leg length
2. Correct setting of the saddle position
3. Monitoring pedal cadence while riding
4. Monitoring your heart rate while riding
Follow The Steps
The first two items above comprise the elements of fitting the bicycle to the individual (you). Items 3 and 4 complement the (now) well fitted bicycle and rider, providing real time feedback to ensure the most efficient return on exercise time as well as providing awareness of proper pedaling effort... very important in terms of preventing injuries or chronic pain conditions from occurring. More detail is presented step by step below.
Step 1.
Taking the time and effort to get the proper frame size is crucial to everything that follows. I recommend that this be done with professional guidance at your Local Bike Shop. Generally, the longer the rider's legs, the bigger the frame that is required. As an example, for me at 5'10", the correct frame size (for my 2007 TriCross Sport bicycle) is 54cm. There is a fairly close correlation between frame size and overall height but I recommend paying attention to your inseam size (mine is 33"). At any rate, the variables here clearly lend themselves to "on the bike" measurement by someone that does this type of thing regularly.
Step 2.
Once the proper size bike is available be sure to take the time to ensure the proper saddle height. This is as important as step 1 and must never be neglected. To set the saddle height, first get the saddle in an approximately appropriate "fore-aft" position (don't worry too much about this yet). Then sit on the saddle (holding yourself up by a wall or the side of a car or with assistance from a companion) and, with normal riding shoes on, place the heel of your foot on either pedal with the pedal in its fully "extended down" position. If the leg can be just straightened completely (with no noticeable bend), you are set. If the leg is bent then the saddle is too low and must be raised. If the heel cannot comfortably reach the pedal with the leg fully extended then the saddle is too high and must be lowered. Adjust the saddle and check again until the height seems to be right. And be careful to ensure that the seat post is inserted within its proper (marked on the post) range.
It may be necessary to iterate the "up/down" and "fore/aft" a few times to get it right. Fore/aft saddle placement is best done by holding a string with a weight (use a large washer or a nut) against the outside base of the patella of the knee while sitting on the bike with the foot (not just the heel) properly placed on the pedal and the pedal in the fully forward (crank parallel to the ground) position. The string should exactly intersect the axle of the pedal. If it is forward of the pedal axle, the saddle must be moved back and if it is back of the pedal axle, the saddle must be moved forward. In either case, if saddle movement is required, the vertical position of the saddle should be re-checked to ensure that it is still correct. Some personal leeway is generally applied regarding fore/aft saddle position. Many riders prefer, for example, to set the saddle back just a little as they feel it adds more power to the pedaling stroke. If you feel you do need to deviate from the fore/aft positions outlined here, I recommend the rearward direction over moving the saddle forward as it implies less pressure on bent knee joints.
An interesting point about vertical saddle position is this: in order to make the most effective (and efficient) use of the legs, the rider should never be able to easily touch the ground with more than the tips of the toes when sitting on the saddle. This means that dismounting is accomplished by removing one foot (say the right one) from its pedal, standing on the other (the left) leg and then bending that supporting leg to lower the (right) foot to the ground... all the while braking in a coordinated fashion to complete the stop. It's my opinion that most sore knees happen to inexperienced riders who feel insecure if they are unable to put their feet down flatfooted on the ground while still sitting on the saddle. When a bike is set up in this fashion, as noted above, the saddle is set too low. The result will always be that the legs are not allowed to reach their full length (and maximum power) when pedaling and, I think, this is what strains the ligaments of the knee, causing the soreness.
Once steps 1 and 2 are completed to the rider's satisfaction, the importance of using the bicycle's gearing system properly moves front and center as the key to items 3 and 4. Items 3 and 4 complement each other and they are intimately joined by use of the mechanical advantages given by proper selection of the front and rear gears of the bike.
Step 3.
Monitoring pedal cadence (i.e., RPM of pedals) is relevant to both efficient use of the engine (the rider's body) driving the bicycle as well as the condition of the mechanical linkage (particularly the rider's knees) upon which power transmission to the pedals depends. It may be easiest to think of this in terms of how a car's engine and transmission interact. The principles are identical. For example, when driving a car with a standard transmission (say, 5 speeds) one starts off in the lowest (or 2nd lowest) gear. The reason is that there is more mechanical advantage in the lower gear and, although the top speed of the car might only be 15 or 20 mph in the low gear, extra power is provided to the wheels to get the mass of the vehicle moving. Without the gearing system, the car might require a 1000 horsepower engine to both "get started" as well as to cruise on the interstate. Efficiency would definitely suffer if this were the case.
In terms of the bicycle rider, and the issue of sore knees, efficient transmission of the rider's muscle power to the pedals means that extreme stress on the knee ligaments is avoided by proper gear selection. In other words, riding in "too high" a gear at slow speeds will put strain on the knee joint. So gear down as appropriate to how fast you wish to ride. While there's generally no additional strain involved with "spinning" pedals too fast (i.e. too low a gear when traveling at relative high speed), riders almost naturally seem to shift up (as well they should) when that occurs.
Step 4.
As promised, this step ties in to the 3 preceding elements by allowing the rider to monitor the condition of the "engine" (you... and your heart) in various states of gearing and effort expenditure during a ride. Pedaling cadence, gearing and the rider's heart rate (or amount of effort being put into the ride) are intimately related. If you don't know your aerobic exercise range of heart rate, please take the time to find out what it is (google will do a good job helping you learn this) and be aware of the numbers as you will use them regularly if you follow the precepts presented here. My range is from 125 to 150 beats per minute (bpm). A heart rate below the low value means the body is not being as efficient as it could be at, for example, burning fat... or at utilizing the carbohydrate produced energy of the body to get the best speed for the least amount of effort. The goal is to maximize the amount of time spent in your aerobic zone. To this end it's useful to use a heart rate monitor (HRM) on the bicycle.
Putting It All Together
With a properly fitted bicycle, monitoring one's heart rate to keep it in your aerobic zone while simultaneously keeping tabs on pedaling cadence for a preferred value (for me, 80-90 rpm feels right) will give the rider the best riding performance and least stress on the knees. For example, if, in my case, my heart rate drops to 110 and my cadence is 95, it's time to shift up to a higher gear. That will make my heart (or me as the "engine") speed up as I work closer to my body's maximum efficiency regime. So I might shift (back rings) from 6th to 7th. Whereupon I will immediately notice the cadence dropping (to, say, 85) and my heart rate should increase (to, say, 120). In this case, I'd probably shift up again to 8 and put more effort into pedaling to get my heart rate up to about 130 and keep the cadence at around 85. Well, I think you get the idea.
Conversely, if my heart rate should go significantly about 150 (my maximum for aerobic exercise), I'd probably adapt by shifting to a lower gear, reducing the pedaling effort... and see the heart rate drop to, say 140. Meanwhile, I'd keep paying some attention to the cadence so that it leveled off again at the (favorite) 85 rpm rate.
A quick word of caution: be sure to maintain your concentration on riding safely and with due attention to people and other bikers on the trail or to traffic around you if on the road. As always, riding should be an enjoyable experience. Hopefully this article will be useful to those that have been trying to solve sore knee problems when bicycling. Feel free to comment.
Friday, July 29, 2011
Washington Insanity
While I don't usually comment on the events in our nation's capital, this is one time that I feel compelled to do so. One reason is that my son is in the process of moving and has just received an offer on the house he's selling. But the buyer hasn't finalized yet and it's *very* likely that the buyer's financing costs are going to go up. At this point, that is likely regardless of whether or not our (less than astute) politicians raise the government's debt ceiling. The reason is that the U.S.'s credit rating is certainly going to be downgraded by the other 2 (of 3) rating agencies and credit across the country will be going up. Yes, that includes borrowing costs for us, the taxpayers.
Everyone out there, blame *both* Republicans and Democrats. Republicans for the budgetary mess they've generated during the Bush administration (2 unfunded wars plus the $1 trillion unfunded prescription drug program) and Democrats for being just as liable in going along with deregulation (or "looking the other way") steps regarding the mortgage backed securities fraud being perpetrated by Wall Street since at least the Clinton administration. Additionally, Democrats seem to almost never see a tax they would like to add.
Proclivity to tax and spend by Democrats, coupled with the Tea Party anti-tax fanaticism and overall consuming greed of conservatives has meant that there are no longer enough moderate voices to pass legislation, important or not, that is meaningful and rational and very necessary to the welfare and progress of our country. The answer has been clear... we need to let the Bush tax cuts expire and also cut spending in rational and appropriate ways. We then need to reform our tax code with an eye to letting all contribute appropriately (some kind of "flat" tax algorithm). If any of this happens now, at the 11th hour, it will be in spite of the Tea Party but, and note this carefully, it is already too late to prevent a fairly decent negative shock to our economy (just what we need, I know) in the form of 1-2% increases in interest rates across the board.
As Bush's administration unfolded I took no joy in knowing that I (a lifelong Republican at that point) did not vote for him either time. Or that I finally dropped my Republican party affiliation in Iowa and became an Independent. I still vote for the person I think will do the best job, but it's hard to see anyone in Washington doing that right now. All I can say is... what a bunch of losers we have there. And it's us, the voters, that are to blame. So what are we going to do about it?
Everyone out there, blame *both* Republicans and Democrats. Republicans for the budgetary mess they've generated during the Bush administration (2 unfunded wars plus the $1 trillion unfunded prescription drug program) and Democrats for being just as liable in going along with deregulation (or "looking the other way") steps regarding the mortgage backed securities fraud being perpetrated by Wall Street since at least the Clinton administration. Additionally, Democrats seem to almost never see a tax they would like to add.
Proclivity to tax and spend by Democrats, coupled with the Tea Party anti-tax fanaticism and overall consuming greed of conservatives has meant that there are no longer enough moderate voices to pass legislation, important or not, that is meaningful and rational and very necessary to the welfare and progress of our country. The answer has been clear... we need to let the Bush tax cuts expire and also cut spending in rational and appropriate ways. We then need to reform our tax code with an eye to letting all contribute appropriately (some kind of "flat" tax algorithm). If any of this happens now, at the 11th hour, it will be in spite of the Tea Party but, and note this carefully, it is already too late to prevent a fairly decent negative shock to our economy (just what we need, I know) in the form of 1-2% increases in interest rates across the board.
As Bush's administration unfolded I took no joy in knowing that I (a lifelong Republican at that point) did not vote for him either time. Or that I finally dropped my Republican party affiliation in Iowa and became an Independent. I still vote for the person I think will do the best job, but it's hard to see anyone in Washington doing that right now. All I can say is... what a bunch of losers we have there. And it's us, the voters, that are to blame. So what are we going to do about it?
Friday, July 15, 2011
Minnesota's Budget Crisis Ends... Cheers!
Interesting to note that the Minnesota legislature (and Governor Dayton) rather quickly (after such a long period of disagreement and non-compromising stands) came up with a solution to the budget crisis that has shut the state down for several weeks. Interesting because it seems that the real mover was the fact that it wouldn't be very long before no more beer would be available in the state due to the lack of official government business license sales. That was very clearly enough to get things going and a resolution appeared in short order. It would seem that timely resolution of the Minnesota budget issues would've been assured, in tandem with tremendous angst avoidance, if the legislative session was scheduled to end on St. Patrick's Day.
We can only hope that the President and the (so-called) leaders of Congress decide that they too need to share a beer...
We can only hope that the President and the (so-called) leaders of Congress decide that they too need to share a beer...
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